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Undereye dark circles (periorbital hyperpigmentation) are a common cosmetic concern in both men and women. Moreover, they are especially prevalent in people of color such as Indians and Africans.

While anyone can develop dark circles, individuals with darker skin tones are more prone to this problem, largely due to genetic factors. The problem can be further exacerbated by lack of quality sleep, a bad diet, dehydration, too much screen time and more.

Types of Dark Circles in People of Color

There are two main types of dark circles in people with brown or black skin tones:

• Pigmentary Dark Circles: These appear as brown or black discolorations and are primarily caused by hyperpigmentation. Meaning the overproduction of melanin in the skin around the eyes.
• Structural (Hollow) Dark Circles: These are caused by the loss of fatty tissue under the eyes, creating a shadow or groove that can accentuate darkness.

Why are People of Color more Susceptible to Periorbital Hyperpigmentation?

Darker skin contains more active melanocyte cells, which are responsible for melanin production. This makes people of color more susceptible to hyperpigmentation, including around the eyes. Additionally, the contrast between the under-eye area and the rest of the face can make dark circles more noticeable in individuals with deeper skin tones.

Key Causes of Dark Circles

While genetics are the primary cause of dark circles in people of color, other factors can also lead to more prominent undereye skin darkening. Among the main reasons include:

• Genetic: Many people of color inherit a predisposition to increased melanin production around the eyes. In addition, inherited anatomical features that promote shadowing under the eyes can also lead to prominent dark circles.
• Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: The thin, sensitive skin around the eyes can easily react to inflammation from conditions such as eczema, allergies, or even frequent rubbing. Such irritation or injury can leave lingering dark marks around the eyes.
• Hormonal Changes: Hormonal fluctuations can stimulate melanin production, worsening dark circles.
• Sun Exposure: Despite the natural photoprotection offered by darker skin, excessive sun exposure can still trigger hyperpigmentation. This is especially true in the delicate thin under-eye area.
• Aging: As people age, the skin loses collagen and becomes thinner, making underlying blood vessels and pigmentation more visible. Fat loss under the eyes can also create hollows that accentuate darkness. This is true for people of all ethnicities and races.
• Lifestyle Factors: Fatigue, dehydration, a poor diet, stress and smoking can all contribute to the more prominent appearance of dark circles. However, these causes are almost always temporary in nature.
• Medical issues such as thyroid disorders and anemia, plus nutritional problems such as iron or vitamin K deficiency can also contribute.

Treatment Options

Topical agents such as vitamin C, retinoids, hydroquinone and niacinamide may help lighten hyperpigmentation around the eyes and brighten the surrounding area. But these ingredients must be used cautiously to avoid irritation, which can worsen pigmentation. Check out some of the non-prescription lightening creams that contain these ingredients. Chemical peels or laser therapies can help but require expertise to prevent burns or scarring in darker skin.

For structural causes, dermal fillers or fat grafting may help restore lost volume. It is also imperative to take care of your diet, drink plenty of water, get sufficient amounts of quality sleep every night, and manage overall stress. Also avoid excessive exposure to direct UV sunlight. The use of sunscreen is critical. Consulting a dermatologist experienced in treating skin of color can help identify the most appropriate strategies for reducing the appearance of dark circles.

For allergies or eczema, the use of antihistamines and gentle moisturizers can minimize inflammation. The use of makeup and color-correcting concealers in peach or orange tones can also neutralize darkness in people of color.

Hydroquinone is often used to lighten and reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation, including melasma. Many bleaching creams contain hydroquinone.

However, in people with darker skin, results vary substantially. Overuse can even cause permanent skin damage and changes.

Hydroquinone use on Dark Skin

Hydroquinone is commonly used in skincare products for individuals with dark skin due to its skin-lightening properties. However, in many countries, it can only be purchased via a prescription and may need to be compounded by a pharmacist. In developing nations, it is usually available over-the-counter (OTC).

Hydroquinone is typically used in cream or lotion formulations at concentration levels of between 1% to 5%. Most creams contain combination formulations that also include other skin lightening agents such as topical retinoids (to increase efficacy) and low potency topical steroids (to reduce irritation and inflammation).

Mechanism of Action

Hydroquinone lightens epidermal (but not the deeper dermal) skin pigmentation by reducing the production of new melanin. In temporarily inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme that causes the skin pigement melanin; and it selectively damages melanocytes and melanosomes.

Most people begin treatment by using hydroquinone topically on the hyperpigmented skin area twice daily for three months. After that period, most patients can reduce application frequency to twice per week to maintain their improved pigmentation.

Below are some specific uses of hydroquinone in treating skin concerns in individuals with dark skin.

Treatment of Hyperpigmentation

Dark skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation, which includes conditions such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma and age spots. Hydroquinone inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. By reducing melanin synthesis, hydroquinone helps lighten dark patches and even out skin tone. You can find many testimonials on Reddit for such use in people of color. Treating hyperpigmentation in Indian skin is especially common.

Melasma Management

Melasma is a common skin condition characterized by dark, irregular patches on the face, particularly in areas exposed to the sun. Hydroquinone is often included in skincare formulations designed to address melasma, either alone or in combination with other active ingredients like tretinoin and corticosteroids.

Treatment of Dark Spots and Scars

Hydroquinone is effective in fading dark spots left behind by acne or other skin injuries. It works by disrupting the excessive melanin production in the affected areas, leading to a more uniform skin tone.

Correction of Uneven Skin Tone

Individuals with dark skin may experience uneven skin tone due to various factors, including sun exposure, inflammation, and hormonal changes. Hydroquinone helps in balancing skin pigmentation, promoting a more consistent complexion.

Topical Treatment for Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra (DPN)

Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra is a common skin condition that presents as small, dark bumps on the face, especially in individuals with darker skin tones (e.g., actor Morgan Freeman). Hydroquinone can be incorporated into topical treatments to reduce the appearance of these lesions.

Hydroquinone Side Effects

It is essential to note that while hydroquinone is widely used for these purposes, there have been concerns about potential side effects, especially with prolonged and high-dose use.

The most worrying side effect is ochronosis, a bluish-black or bluish-grey discoloration of the skin. However, it has been reported in rare cases. It is more commonly seen in patients that use a high concentration of hydroquinone for a long period on large areas of the body.

Due to these concerns, regulatory authorities in certain regions have imposed restrictions on the concentration of hydroquinone in over-the-counter skincare products.

Amond the potential adverse effects include:

• Irritation.
• Allergic contact dermatitis.
• Erythema.
• Inflammation.
• Xeroderma.
• Stinging.
• ochronosis

Before using hydroquinone or any other skincare product, individuals with dark skin should consult with a dermatologist to determine the most appropriate treatment plan and to ensure the safe and effective use of these products. Additionally, it’s crucial to use sun protection measures, such as sunscreen, as part of the skincare routine to prevent further hyperpigmentation and maintain overall skin health.