Laser and other Treatments for People with Darker Skin | Laser hair removal, hyperpigmentation treatment and more for those with darker skin.

Dark Circles in People of Color

Undereye dark circles (periorbital hyperpigmentation) are a common cosmetic concern in both men and women. Moreover, they are especially prevalent in people of color such as Indians and Africans.

While anyone can develop dark circles, individuals with darker skin tones are more prone to this problem, largely due to genetic factors. The problem can be further exacerbated by lack of quality sleep, a bad diet, dehydration, too much screen time and more.

Types of Dark Circles in People of Color

There are two main types of dark circles in people with brown or black skin tones:

Pigmentary Dark Circles: These appear as brown or black discolorations and are primarily caused by hyperpigmentation. Meaning the overproduction of melanin in the skin around the eyes.
Structural (Hollow) Dark Circles: These are caused by the loss of fatty tissue under the eyes, creating a shadow or groove that can accentuate darkness.

Why are People of Color more Susceptible to Periorbital Hyperpigmentation?

Darker skin contains more active melanocyte cells, which are responsible for melanin production. This makes people of color more susceptible to hyperpigmentation, including around the eyes. Additionally, the contrast between the under-eye area and the rest of the face can make dark circles more noticeable in individuals with deeper skin tones.

Key Causes of Dark Circles

While genetics are the primary cause of dark circles in people of color, other factors can also lead to more prominent undereye skin darkening. Among the main reasons include:

Genetic: Many people of color inherit a predisposition to increased melanin production around the eyes. In addition, inherited anatomical features that promote shadowing under the eyes can also lead to prominent dark circles.
Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: The thin, sensitive skin around the eyes can easily react to inflammation from conditions such as eczema, allergies, or even frequent rubbing. Such irritation or injury can leave lingering dark marks around the eyes.
Hormonal Changes: Hormonal fluctuations can stimulate melanin production, worsening dark circles.
Sun Exposure: Despite the natural photoprotection offered by darker skin, excessive sun exposure can still trigger hyperpigmentation. This is especially true in the delicate thin under-eye area.
Aging: As people age, the skin loses collagen and becomes thinner, making underlying blood vessels and pigmentation more visible. Fat loss under the eyes can also create hollows that accentuate darkness. This is true for people of all ethnicities and races.
Lifestyle Factors: Fatigue, dehydration, a poor diet, stress and smoking can all contribute to the more prominent appearance of dark circles. However, these causes are almost always temporary in nature.
Medical issues such as thyroid disorders and anemia, plus nutritional problems such as iron or vitamin K deficiency can also contribute.

Treatment Options

Topical agents such as vitamin C, retinoids, hydroquinone and niacinamide may help lighten hyperpigmentation around the eyes and brighten the surrounding area. But these ingredients must be used cautiously to avoid irritation, which can worsen pigmentation. Check out some of the non-prescription lightening creams that contain these ingredients. Chemical peels or laser therapies can help but require expertise to prevent burns or scarring in darker skin.

For structural causes, dermal fillers or fat grafting may help restore lost volume. It is also imperative to take care of your diet, drink plenty of water, get sufficient amounts of quality sleep every night, and manage overall stress. Also avoid excessive exposure to direct UV sunlight. The use of sunscreen is critical. Consulting a dermatologist experienced in treating skin of color can help identify the most appropriate strategies for reducing the appearance of dark circles.

For allergies or eczema, the use of antihistamines and gentle moisturizers can minimize inflammation. The use of makeup and color-correcting concealers in peach or orange tones can also neutralize darkness in people of color.

Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Dark Skin

Tyrosinase Inhibitors Skin Lightening — Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Skin Lightening. Chemical Structures.

Tyrosinase inhibitors have become a cornerstone in managing hyperpigmentation and achieving even-toned skin. These compounds target the enzyme tyrosinase, which catalyzes melanin production (the pigment responsible for skin color). Overactivity of tyrosinase leads to conditions like melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and age spots. By inhibiting this enzyme, these agents help restore a balanced complexion while addressing both existing discoloration and future pigment formation. Also check out my post on the best dark spot correctors.

How Tyrosinase Inhibitors Work

Tyrosinase is essential for converting tyrosine into melanin precursors like L-DOPA. Inhibitors disrupt this process through mechanisms such as:

Competitive inhibition: Binding directly to the enzyme’s active site (e.g., kojic acid).
Non-competitive inhibition: Altering the enzyme’s structure (e.g., hydroquinone).
Chelating copper ions: Tyrosinase requires copper for activity, and agents like azelaic acid neutralize these ions.

This multi-pronged approach reduces melanin synthesis, making these inhibitors effective for diverse skin tones and pigmentation types.

Common Tyrosinase Inhibitors and Their Efficacy

1. Hydroquinone
A gold-standard inhibitor, hydroquinone suppresses melanocyte activity and is highly effective for melasma and PIH. However, prolonged use can cause irritation, ochronosis (bluish-black discoloration), and rebound pigmentation. It’s typically prescribed for short-term use (3–6 months).

2. Kojic Acid
Derived from fungi, kojic acid competitively inhibits tyrosinase and chelates copper. While effective, it degrades quickly in formulations and may irritate sensitive skin.

3. Arbutin
A gentler derivative of hydroquinone, arbutin (especially α-arbutin) offers comparable brightening with minimal side effects, making it suitable for long-term use.

4. Thiamidol
A synthetic resorcinol derivative, thiamidol is clinically proven to reduce PIH by 35–50% within 12 weeks. Unlike older agents, it specifically targets human tyrosinase and shows no significant irritation.

5. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
Though a weak direct inhibitor, vitamin C blocks melanogenesis via antioxidant activity and stabilizing tyrosinase’s structure. It’s often paired with stronger inhibitors for synergistic effects.

6. Niacinamide
This indirect inhibitor reduces melanosome transfer to skin cells and combats inflammation-driven pigmentation, enhancing overall efficacy when combined with direct tyrosinase blockers.

Benefits Beyond Pigmentation

Preventive care: Regular use minimizes UV-induced melanin surges.
Anti-aging: Many inhibitors (e.g., vitamin C, resveratrol) also combat oxidative stress and collagen degradation.
Versatility: Suitable for acne-prone skin (azelaic acid) and sensitive types (arbutin).

Considerations for Optimal Use

Combination Therapy. Pair inhibitors with exfoliants (e.g., glycolic acid) to accelerate cell turnover and sunscreen (SPF 30+) to prevent UV-triggered rebound.
Tyrosinase Inhibitor Holidays. Cycling use (e.g., 3 months on, 1 month off) prevents enzyme adaptation and maintains efficacy.
Formulation Stability. Ingredients like kojic acid and vitamin C degrade easily. Look for stabilized variants (e.g., tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) in airtight packaging.
Safety and Tolerance. Patch-test new products, especially with hydroquinone or high-strength acids. Opt for nano-encapsulated formulations to reduce irritation while enhancing delivery.

Emerging Alternatives and Innovations

Cysteamine: A potent inhibitor with UV-protective properties, ideal for resistant pigmentation.
Nano-Theranostics: Nanoparticle-based delivery systems improve penetration and reduce side effects, as seen in experimental models.
Natural Extracts: Licorice (glabridin) and mulberry extract offer plant-derived inhibition with antioxidant benefits.

Conclusion

Tyrosinase inhibitors are indispensable for managing hyperpigmentation, but success hinges on selecting the right agent for your skin type and concerns. While hydroquinone remains potent, alternatives like thiamidol and arbutin provide safer long-term options. Integrate these inhibitors into a holistic regimen featuring sun protection, anti-inflammatory agents, and exfoliation for sustained results. Always consult a dermatologist to tailor treatments, particularly for persistent or severe pigmentation issues.

The 11 Best Dark Spot Correctors for Glowing Bright Skin

For people of color, dark spots and small areas of hyperpigmentation are a constant struggle. This is especially true in darker skinned people who also suffer from acne and have sensitive skin. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the most common skin complaints to dermatologists. One of the main initial solutions for this problem is dark spot correctors.

Common ingredients that reduce dark spots or brighten skin include: vitamin C; hydroquinone; kojic acid; retinol (or other retinoids); niacinamide; exfoliating acids and peels such as glycolic acid and salicylic acid; licorice root extract; tranexamic acid; azelaic acid; arbutin; and emblica. Daily use of sunscreen is also a requisite if you want to achieve an even toned skin.

A recent 2023 study showed that a novel pigment-correcting dark spot treatment gel significantly improved the appearance of PIH and solar lentigines after 12 weeks of application. Below is the before and after photo.

Dark Spot Correctors Results — Dark spot corrector before and after 12 weeks results. Source: Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology.

The Best Dark Spot Correctors in 2024

There are numerous dark spot correctors on the market. Most can be used safely by people with all skin types. However, some of them contain ingredients that should be used sparingly by people with darker skin types. Lightening creams with hydroquinone can especially cause serious side effects with long-term use on dark skin.

TruSkin Vitamin C Face Serum

TruSkin’s Vitamin C Serum is a good first step to begin lightening your facial dark spots. While it doesn’t contain any potent ingredients, this means that there are less chances of undesirable side effects. With over 142,000 Amazon reviews at the time of writing this post, this product is a blockbuster. The average rating of 4.3 out of 5 stars is also respectable.

Besides Vitamin C, this TruSkin Serum also contains Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin E. It contains a better form of Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) that is highly stable and maintains potency for longer. It also causes less skin stinging than other commonly used forms of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid).

L’Oréal Paris Bright Reveal

L'Oreal Bright Reveal — L’Oreal Bright Reveal with 12% Niacinamide.

What would any bestselling list of skincare products be without the mention of French cosmetics behemoth L’Oréal? The company’s Bright Reveal dermatologist tested dark spot serum contains a very strong 12% Niacinamide as well as Amino Sulfonic Acid and Ferulic Acid.

It will visibly reduce the appearance of dark spots, age spots, sunspots and post-acne scar marks. The Ferulic Acid and Amino Sulfonic Acid gently exfoliate skin surface cells and moisturize and brighten skin.

Cyspera Cysteamine Cream

Cysteamine is a very unique novel ingredient. The Cyspera pigment correction cream contains Cysteamine Isobionic-Amide Complex™. It inhibits both tyrosinase and peroxidase. It also acts as a dopaquinone scavenger. The Cyspera Intensive System costs $285 on the manufacturer’s website and consists of:

Cyspera Intensive™ (30 ml / 1 fl oz).
Cyspera Neutralize™ (50 ml / 1.75 fl oz).
Cyspera Boost™ (30 ml / 1 fl oz).

Musely

Musely makes a range of products to diminish your dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Among the ingredients in their prescription dark spot reducing cream include hydroquinone, niacinamide, azelaic acid, tretinoin, hydrocortisone, tranexamic acid and vitamin C. Getting prescription from Musely is easy and all done online via a 3-minute doctor consultation. Your custom medication is then compounded and mailed to you. If you have dark skin, make sure that you go easy on the hydroquinone strength and frequency of application. Overuse can cause long-term skin damage.

Discoloration Serum from Good Molecules

Good Molecules Discoloration Correcting Serum currently has 3,500 reviews on Amazon, with an average rating of 4.3 out of 5 stars. Currently prices at $12 for 1 Fl Oz. The key ingredients in this product are 3% tranexamic acid (cetyl tranexamate mesylate) and 4% niacinamide. The tranexamic acid targets skin discoloration and helps promote a clear skin tone. Make sure to read my post on tranexamic acid for skin lightening. The niacinamide helps improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, dullness and enlarged pores.

Clinique Dark Spot Corrector Interrupter

This is a very expensive product when not on sale, retailing at $88 for a 1.7 Fl Oz serum pump. The currently discounted price is $26. It has an average rating of 4.3 out of 5 stars based on 2,030 reviews. All Clinique products are free from parabens, phthalates and fragrance.

The key ingredients in Clinique’s unisex dark spot corrector and interrupter are salicylic acid, vitamin C and proprietary CL302 equalizer technology. Its use results in diminished acne scars and dark spots.

Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum

Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum contains Kojic Acid, Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid. It is dermatologist tested, vegan and cruelty-free and also contains Allantoin, Azelaic Acid and Licorice Root Extract.

The 1.7 Fl Oz tube of Topical Faded currently costs $38, which is moderately expensive. The average rating across 1,830 reviewers is 4.1 out of 5 stars. Topicals Rx is listed as a small black-owned business and its products are always suitable for black skin.

Neutrogena Dark Spot Corrector

Well known brand Neutrogena makes a dark spot corrector with Retinol and Vitamin C as the key ingredients. It currently has almost 10,000 reviews with an average rating of 4.2 out of 5 stars. It targets stubborn dark spots to even out skin tone.

This daily facial serum is formulated with fast acting pure retinol, a dermatologist-approved and proven form of vitamin A. It is suitable for daily use in all skin types (including South Asian and Black), and is free of mineral oil and dyes.

AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum

An interesting product from South Korea that contains 5% niacinamide, vegan plant-derived squalane, papaya extract, allantoin, rice bran, sea buckthorn, calendula and more. Note that squalane is the hydrogenated derivative of squalene. Helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation and brightens skin. AXIS-Y currently has currently has 2,800 reviews on Amazon, with an average rating of 4.3 out of 5 stars.

Axis-Y Dark Spot Corrector — Axis-Y dark spot corrector with Niacinamide 5%, and various other natural ingredients.

Citygoo Dark Spot Remover

The CITYGOO dark spot remover cream tranexamic acid, niacinamide, squalene, panthenol, citric acid, vitamin E and hydrolyzed rice protein. It claims to reduce dark spots, pregnancy spots, sun spots, hyperpigmentation, scars, discoloration and melasma.

Lightning Wand

The Lightning Wand from Hero Cosmetics is a brightening serum for fading dark spots. It contains powerful skin care ingredients and yet no hydroquinone, phthalates, artificial color, no fragrance. It is also not tested on animals. Glycolic acid in this Lightning Wand product exfoliates dead skin. The skin is also brightened with vitamin C, niacinamide and tranexamic acid.